Fabricating History

According to anecdotal historical records, handloom weavers were introduced to this region under the rule of Raja Ganesha, the head of the Ganesha dynasty of Gaur, in the 15th century. What started as a niche endeavour blossomed into a robustly active industry under Nadia Raj, a dynasty of Zamindars (landlords). Darga Das Kastha introduced the barrel dobby, enabling the transition from throw shuttle to fly shuttle pit looms between 1920-1925. Later in the 20th century, Jatindra Nath Lohori introduced a jacquard with a 100-hook capacity to produce a wider variety of Santipur sarees. From employing shuttle pit looms to using jacquard machines, this craft has evolved and adapted to the taste of various ruling classes over the centuries.

Traditionally, artisans employed only cotton and silk as the primary raw materials to manufacture these sarees. Now, twisted cotton, Muga ( a variety of silk), zari (golden threads), silver, and gold are employed to weave the borders. The unique hand-spinning technique using cross-wise yarns (extra weft), in combination with extremely thin fabric, novel designs, and vibrant hues, makes Santipore sarees exceptionally fascinating. 

Diversity in Design

There are numerous exclusive Santipur sarees available. The Nilambari saree is perhaps the most famous and sought-after Santipur saree. With its deep navy blue colour dominating the body of the saree, contrasting borders, and the pallu ( the loose end of the saree) with stripes of varying thicknesses (Sajanshoi), the Nilambari saree emulates the beauty of the night sky. The texture of the saree is remarkably smooth and, hence, has always been  popular among the ruling classes and the aristocrats. Other diverse designs include geometrical, floral, paisley, traditional, abstract patterns, and motifs inspired by temples and history.