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Uttarakhand

Lansdowne-a cheesy spot

By: Let's Go Sightseeing
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It was the summer of 2015. As the heat of the north Indian plains began to get to us, we longed for a mountainous escape. With work burdening us, we could only manage to get away for three days.

So, why not go somewhere nearby this time? What’s the hill station nearest to Delhi NCR? And thus was born the plan to drive to Lansdowne. It turned out to be an amazing trip with great memories that we cannot stop talking about even today.

Lansdowne is a spot for romantic liaisons. The mountain tops here resemble inverted waves. Wake up early to catch a sunrise. Spot old cars now getting taken over by the elements. Click, pose, click to your heart’s content!

Even in May, the night temperatures in Lansdowne fell to single digits. Chilly winds accompanied, catching us by surprise.

An outstanding Hill Station

The British colonists developed Lansdowne as a training centre for the Garhwal Rifles. It soon became the regimental centre of the Rifles who were, till then, in Almora. The regiment migrated from Almora to Lansdowne in the 19th century.

During the British era, many buildings and churches were built in Lansdowne, a few of which survive till this day. And the town continues to be since those days. Despite its proximity to Delhi NCR, it remains a quiet hill station.

This hush is attributable to Lansdowne being a cantonment town. The Army restricts the extent of activities that can take place here. Thus, this hill station has escaped the mindless construction and urbanisation that can be seen elsewhere in the Himalayas.

Even the number of accommodations are limited implying that Lansdowne cannot get overcrowded. The Cantonment Board manages the cleanliness of the town; one of the cleanest we have seen in Uttarakhand.

For these reasons, we call Lansdowne an outstanding hill station. But, even with all its peace, it has many interesting places in and around that can provide for a sightseeing–packed weekend.

We visited Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple; Darwan Singh Sanghralaya; Tip n Top Viewpoint; Bhullatal Lake; St. Mary's Church; and St. John’s Church, about which we write in this post. However, visitors can also visit Kaleshwar Mahadev Temple; Santoshi Mata Temple; Lover's Lane; Kitchner Lines Old Cemetery; and Durga Devi Temple.


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Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple

We were curious to visit the Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple due to the presence of hundreds of bells. It is about 38 kilometres from Lansdowne but took us 1.5 hours to reach due to the narrow and winding roads.

The last 5.5 km stretch had just one lane. We joked about how we would manoeuvre if another vehicle came from the opposite direction! But, once we reached, the quietude engulfed us, and the setting of the Mahadev Temple stumped us.

But first, from the parking to the Temple, it is a descent of about 10 minutes. Coming back the same way can become tiring for old and unfit people and can take 20 minutes or more. You can take frequent breaks; the scenery makes that easy.


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The Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple is located right in the middle of a deodar forest. Our first sight, once we had descended the steps, was an open meadow ending into a cluster of tall deodar trees. Devotees chose the meadow and the shade of the trees to catch their breath before making their way back.

A cobbled path then led us to the Mahadev Temple. This path is adorned with hundreds of bells on both sides. It not just made for a pretty sight but also for a sweet sound – the tinkling of bells in a forest clearing.

The Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There are two main shrines – one dedicated to Shiva’s avatar and another to Goddess Durga. There is also a small pond called Gauri Kund. It was incredibly clean.

The Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple periphery too had innumerable bells. Devotees circum-ambulate, ringing the bells and saying their prayers. If there is one reason, we give you to visit, it is the chiming of the bells.

The bells give out a sweet music and pretty much the only sound you will hear in the forest. A wonderful experience overall!

Darwan Singh Sanghralaya

We love visiting army museums. So, we knew we HAD to visit the Darwan Singh Sanghralaya. Set near the parade ground and the war memorial, it traces the history of the Garhwal Rifles. They participated in the two world wars amongst other battles through their 100+ years of history.

Right from pre-independence wars to as late as Kargil, the Sanghralaya will make the hearts of Indians swell with pride. It also speaks of the culture and nature of the Garhwal region. A lot of old artefacts are maintained in excellent condition.


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A gate called the Shaurya Dwar was our next stop. It was locked but we peeked at the War Memorial through the bars. It is the memorial for the fallen soldiers of the Garhwal Regiment. A poignant placard there advised us not to lament the warrior’s death.

We request all Lansdowne travellers to pay the nominal fee and see the Darwan Singh Sanghralaya. Also, we request all to follow the rules mentioned there pertaining to photography.


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Tip n Top Viewpoint

Tip n Top Viewpoint is the highest point in Lansdowne. It is a good spot from which to view sunrises and sunsets. We went a little after sunrise and the place was empty. Click the surrounding mountains and valleys.

For bird enthusiasts, if you sit here for some time, you can see a number of varieties of birds.


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Bhullatal Lake

Bhullatal Lake is a small water body with a park surrounding it. Boating is available here which we saw couples and families enjoying. The landscaping is done well and a number of points to click photographs given, specially the bridge across.

The garden has a pen for pigeons, rabbits and guinea pigs, all of which were adorable to look at. The Bhullatal Lake even had a few ducks. Children will find the place fascinating. At the entrance, there is a souvenir shop called ‘Nidhi’ which is related to army wives and a restaurant where you can grab a bite.


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St. Mary's Church

On the way to and from Tip n Top Viewpoint, we came across the St. Mary’s Church which looked interesting. A small structure, we found it closed most of the times we crossed it. Finally, on our last day, we found it open and went inside for a quick prayer.

The outer architecture is more interesting than the interiors. The floors creaked. A small garden provides for a photo-op.


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St. John’s Church

St. John’s Church is prettier than the St. Mary’s Church. It is better maintained too. It is right at a turning; so you may have some problem figuring out where to park. It has its story written on a board outside.

St. John’s Church was quiet, and we could not see anyone here. But its beauty was partly in the silence surrounding it, as well as in the colonial building. Do take a look.


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GMVN Tip n Top Resthouse

The location of the GMVN Tip n Top Resthouse is its USP. It is located above the highest point of Lansdowne, i.e., the Tip N Top Viewpoint. Its premises are full of pleasing flowers. It has charming European-style wooden cottages which have a drawing room, a dining area, a bedroom and a bathroom.

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