Varanasi

Varanasi is incredulously piquant all-round the year. Step in, and the city will make you forget your joys and miseries. The sooner you surrender to its dynamism, the clamor and chaos of its Ghats, the gentleness of river Ganga, the umpteen number of stories, the aura of Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the eternal flame at Dashashwamedh Ghat, the labyrinthine lanes, and the timelessness of the city will grow on you immediately. The most fascinating characteristic about the city that will stun you is that death isn’t mourned but celebrated here. You will never find any other city in the whole world where people prefer to spend their last days of life and plan them accordingly.

Just like everyone finds their calling and different reasons to connect with Varanasi, you will find yours too. But it will take you a walk through the nooks and crannies of the city to discover what side of it you are most attracted to. To start off, just go around the riverside to observe the various activities on the ghats. On one of the days, wrestle your way to the oldest akhara on the Tulsi Ghat. On another day, knock on the doors of the native wooden toymakers of Khojwa. Then proceed to meet the Banarasi saree weavers of Peeli Kothi. Don’t forget to decode the dying art of Gulabi Meenakari. And last but not the least, explore the color splash around the city!

Every Ghat tells a story!

You must have seen it in movies, now it’s all real in Varanasi. So, begin your day at the Assi Ghat with the morning aarti (prayers) and wrap it up at Dasaswamedh Ghat with the mesmerizing evening aarti. In between, get on a boat ride to get acquainted with the whole enigma of Varanasi. Each ghat has a story and to soak in the individual vibes, just walk from one to another. Assi Ghat is called so because this is the place where the river Assi joins the river Ganga. There is Janki Ghat which gets its name from the Sita Temple, the Harishchandra Ghat is named after the mythical King Raja Harishchandra, the Kedar Ghat boasts one of the twelve ‘Jyotirlingams of Shiva’ (Kedareshwar Temple), Bhadaini Ghat has a huge pump station, the Darbhanga Ghat has a Bihar connect, Sant Kabir found his Guru Swami Ramanand at the Panchganga Ghat, and there is Manikarnika Ghat where dead bodies are burned and is also a prime Shakti Peeth.

Wrestle your way to the Akharas

Impressed with the panorama of the ghats? Now spend a morning exploring the oldest akharas of Varanasi. These institutions have been safeguarding 5000-year-old art of wrestling (kusti) by training boys and girls at a professional level. Visiting Tulsi Das Akara on the Tulsi Ghat must be on your agenda. Get inspired by the mud-splayed, agile and feisty youngsters being trained by Mewa Ram Ji, one of the most experienced trained wrestlers there. If you wish to know more, he will share details about the preparation of the soil of the wrestling ring, the daily exercises and the future of sports as a whole. During your detours, you may also visit the Adi Sankara’s Juna Akhara, the first monastic order that boasts nearly 400,000 sadhus (holy men).

Hear the loom stories

Your trip to this city can’t be complete without buying a saree and hearing its tales from the weavers. For the love of Banarasi sarees and other fascinating designs that this city has been creating for decades, a trip to the old Peeli Kothi area is a must. This is the place where you will get an opportunity to meet the Muslim master weavers and hear them talk about handwoven pure silk, real silver zari work, thankas, vintage motifs, Banarasi brocades, mish-mash of weaving techniques, legendary sarees and kinkhaab—the hallmark design of Varanasi. Fashion fickleness has been posing a great threat to these weavers, but in your small way, you can help preserve this original art form by buying direcly from them.

Dig in the pink legacy of the city

After Banarasi sarees, you must find some time to indulge in Gulaabi Meenakari. From its inception in the 17th century to the 21st century, this method of enameling and filling jewellery designs with translucent pink happens to be one of the oldest and impeccable artistic traditions of Varanasi. The city boasts some of the most skilled craftsmen of this art and in some families the legacy is well-preserved with the fifth generation of artisans still involved in it. If you have a fancy for luxury and fashion, you must definitely invest in traditional Meenakari designs.

Meet the wooden toy makers

Now take a stroll in the streets of Khojwa, and it will reveal to you yet another craftsmanship of Varanasi. The little workshops, the artists, and their lovely wooden creations-birds, animals, soldiers, idols of Ganesha and Hanuman. In no time, you will be transported back to your childhood. This sudden admiration for the art of wooden toymaking will lead you to interact with these artists, who will happily narrate to you the nuances of procuring the wood, hand-carving and lacquering. The process entails cutting, peeling and shaping the wood with the help of knives, then carving and finally, painting it with bright and natural colours. Don’t forget to buy these biodegradable and absolutely safe toys for kids or just to add a dash of chic to your decor.

Do your own street art trail

Want yet another reason to travel to Varanasi? Come for the street art! Take a stroll and discover the freshly done murals and paintings and how they have infused new life and energy into the old streets of Varanasi! Walk around the Kachahari (court) area to find the unending wall art. You’ll applaud the local artists for their attempt to portray the popular aspects of the city-the Ganga aarti, the saints, music, art, dance, and the famous personalities of Varanasi, in their artworks.

Be a foodie

Even if you aren’t a foodie, you’ll be tempted to try the thick creamed Lassi (sweet buttermilk), Banarasi sweets, spicy chaat, and the Banarasi paan (betel leaf). And why not! Food is a part of Varanasi culture, and it is a sin not to savour the delicious snacks of Chowk Bazaar and Vishwanath Gali.