If you’re hankering for mutton biryani, this is your go-to place. “Idris ki biryani”, as it’s known, is some of the city’s best, although the shifty ambience makes it best for takeaway.
Ravi’s Pani Puri
Descend on Lucknow’s stalls that sell a variety of flavoured pani puri. Ravi’s does gyara pani-wala pani puri, that has a spread of 11 varieties. There’s an order to consuming the flavoured pani puri: the regular pani, followed by hing (asafoetida), aam (mango), hari mirch (green chilli), mixed aam, adhrak (ginger), jeera (cumin), pudina (mint), kala namak (black salt), nimbu (lime) and a “special” dry one bringing up the rear. Half the joy is just watching the staff dole out the puris in perfect synchronisation. If you’re in the city in winter, look out for neighbouring stalls selling malai makhan or nimish, which is a sweet, creamy foam sprinkled with pistachios.
Jamuna Prasad Chowrasiya Maghai Paan Bhandar
The locals wrap up their meals with paan, because of its digestive benefits, and the betel leaf doubles as a mouth freshener. This paan bhandar is one of the oldest shops in the area. Get some maghai meetha paan, made with tender betel leaves here.
Pandit Raja Thandai
Stop by for a tall glass of chilled, saffron-yellow thandai (milk flavoured with spices and almonds) that reminded me a lot of the badam milk I had earlier in the day. You can also opt for bhang, a form of cannabis, to be added to the drink – and find a quiet, safe place for the next few hours.
Raheem Hotel
Raheem’s is a little hole in the wall known for its nalli nihari, a gravy of beef or mutton trotters that’s mopped up with kulchas. The locals prefer to breakfast on this, but Raheem dishes out nalli nihari all day long.
Mubeen’s
A tiny joint that serves up great nalli nihari and kulchas. While you’re there, try their pasanda kebabs, boneless pieces of beef that are cut into ribbons and then mashed, marinated and barbecued over an open fire. Their chicken korma and mutton stew are also good.