A Journey Through Time: Unveiling the Samanar Hills
West of Madurai, where bustling highways carve through verdant landscapes, rise the Samanar Hills – a hidden treasure trove waiting to be explored. Stretching from the village of Keelakuyilkudi towards Madurai's southern reaches, these rocky terrains narrates tales of a rich past, boasting monuments that span a staggering period – from the 2nd-century BCE to the 12th-century CE.
The southernmost edge of the Samanar Hills reveals a fascinating assortment of religious heritage. Jain and Hindu monuments stand side-by-side, each a testament to the region's diverse spiritual landscape. Further east lies Kanjamalai, where the renowned Thiruparankundram Jain cave and the rock-cut Subramaniya Swamy temple, a prominent Hindu shrine, stand in harmonious proximity. Adding another layer of cultural richness is the 17th to 18th-century Islamic dargah of Sikandar Shah, the last ruler of the Madurai Sultanate.
The name "Samanar" itself holds historical significance. Derived from the Sanskrit word 'Sramana,' it denotes an ascetic tradition. In Tamil Nadu, this term is particularly associated with Jainism. Local usage adds 'malai,' meaning hill, transforming 'Samanar' into 'Samanar Malai,' which translates to 'Jain Hill.' Legend speaks of the 8th-century Jain scholar Akalanka, credited with founding these hills along with nearby Jain communities in Madurai. His triumph over Buddhist scholars in Kanchipuram is said to have ushered in a golden era for Jainism, one that flourished until the 12th century.
Decipher the whispers of the past
The heart of the Samanar Hills lies in its collection of Jain monuments. Primarily concentrated on two slopes, these relics offer a glimpse into Jain practices and artistic traditions. On the southwestern slope, visitors can explore Settipodavu, a 10th-century Jain cave accessed by a short climb from the base. Across the hill, on the southeastern slope, lies the Pechchipallam site. Here, a collection of Jain reliefs and inscriptions, primarily from the 10th century, awaits. A few inscriptions date back to the late 9th century, while some extend beyond the 10th century, showcasing the site's enduring significance. Interestingly, the summit of the hills reveals a different story. Here, archaeologists have discovered several Tamil-Brahmi inscriptions, secular in nature and not tied to a specific religion.
The journey doesn't end on the slopes. At the base of the hills, visitors can find the restored Karuppu Sami temple and a lotus pond, a vibrant space dedicated to a rural folk deity. Traces of another temple, a Vishnu temple, also linger. Its base platform (jagati) offers a hint of its former glory. These sites likely fell victim to the religious conflicts of the 14th century that ravaged the Thiruparankundram area. During this period, Madurai faced raids from the Delhi Sultanate and later became the capital of the Madurai Sultanate, a time marked by destruction and upheaval.
Despite the scars of history, the Samanar Hills remain a captivating destination. From the murmurs of Jain heritage to the echoes of a bygone era, this unique landscape promises an enriching journey for history buffs and spiritual seekers alike.
