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Rajasthan

Of blues & golds: Jodhpur Jaisalmer 4 day itinerary

By: Rutuja Bhagwat
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Jodhpur and Jaisalmer in 4 days? Sure, why not!

Rajasthan is among those Indian states I adore pertaining to its vividness, rich culture, and heritage. I have been to this 'Land of Maharajas'—India's quintessential state of medieval palaces and psychedelic festivals—three times, and I don't mind paying a visit again.

I've been to Udaipur with my classmates (and I'd even listed down things to carry to Udaipur), a solo trip to Mount Abu and a solo trip to Jaipur for three days. And I've had different experiences every time. Udaipur was cold, clean and pretty; Mount Abu, a hill station crowded with men; and Jaipur, a safe, colourful city for solo travellers.

This time around, I had an urge of visiting Jodhpur (the blue city) and Jaisalmer (the golden city). You can say it has a lot to do with my rising imagination as I was hoping the blue city could give me as a lovely experience as the pink city did. I was looking forward to the dominance of blue and what peculiar was there in store for me. And for Jaisalmer, well, I badly wanted to camp in the middle of the Jaisalmer desert and marvel at this glistening city. So I took off four days and planned a Jodhpur Jaisalmer 4 Day Itinerary.

To reach Jodhpur from most top cities, you can take railways or airways. Jodhpur has a dedicated airport with 9 domestic flights. To reach Jodhpur from other airports, you can reach Jaipur first by flight/railway and then take a bus to Jodhpur. The distance between Jaipur and Jodhpur is 350km.

WHERE TO STAY IN JODHPUR / BEST HOMESTAY IN JODHPUR

We stayed at Nirvana Home in Jodhpur and I believe it is one of the best homestays in Jodhpur. In fact, it was listed as one of the best homestays in Jodhpur by Lonely Planet as well.

DAY 1 - UMAID BHAWAN PALACE & MEHRANGARH FORT

Lunch @ Hotel Priya

As you check-in to your hotel on day 1 of your Jodhpur Jaisalmer trip, freshen up and head out for lunch. I recommend Hotel Priya for its thaali and also because it is a recommended place to eat in Jodhpur. A Priya special thaali costs Rs 220.

Hotel Priya is 450m away from Nirvana Home, so you can walk and witness the daily chaos of the city. You walk from the local market and get a glimpse of how the business, chores, and other daily tasks are carried out in Jodhpur.


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Rajasthan

Umaid Bhawan Palace

From Hotel Priya, catch an auto for Umaid Bhawan Palace. I highly recommend hiring a cab/auto for the entire day as the auto fare is exorbitantly high. The auto-wallah charged Rs 150 to reach Umaid Bhawan Palace from Nai Sarak.

The entry for Umaid Bhawan Palace Museum is Rs 30 per head. What to do at the Umaid Bhawan Palace? Sit in the garden, understand the history of the palace and its rulers inside the museum, and click pictures inside the palace. Photography is allowed here so that's a plus point.

Mehrangarh fort

There are a number of autos available outside Umaid Bhawan. Catch one and go to Mehrangarh Fort. Try to reach the fort by 3pm to make the most of it. I believe it's the best fort in India, especially to visit in colder months. The entry to the fort is Rs 200 per head. There is an elevator facility, which is at Rs 50 one way. I recommend taking it instead of climbing the fort.

Take beautiful blue city views from the top of the fort and start descending. On the way, you'll witness some amazing architecture, breathtaking views, mindboggling interiors, cute little shops selling souvenirs, handicrafts, and decor. Don't exit the fort without seeing the sunset (the reason why I asked you to visit Mehrangarh around 3pm).

The best part of the Mehrangarh Fort is the live folk music. The evening air combined with the singer's "Padharo Mhare Des" is an experience that you shouldn't miss on your Jodhpur Jaisalmer 4 Day Itinerary.


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Sardar market & clock tower

Post the fort, take an auto for Ghantaghar (Clock Tower) and visit the Sardar Market. This market is about a few minutes' walk from Nirvana Home so explore as much as you wish! The market is not very touristy and caters to locals and their basic necessities. There isn't much to buy here but if you keep an eye on every shop, you might just end up buying indigo block prints, bandhani dress materials, and a few Jodhpur-special goodies.

Evening coffee @ panorama 360 cafe

After a day of walking (my count was 10k steps), treat yourself to some hot coffee at Panorama 360 Cafe inside the Pal Haveli. The rooftop cafe throws a view of the Mehrangarh Fort. It's a minute walk away from the Sardar Market.

DAY 2 - ISIT THE BLUE CITY

Blue city

The Jodhpur Jaisalmer 4 Day Itinerary is incomplete without paying a visit to the blue alleys. After having breakfast at your hotel, head to the Navchowkiya or Chandpole by auto or taxi. Use Google Maps for the directions. To explore the blue lanes of Jodhpur, you will need a guide. You can contact Deepak (+91 8619516125) who is still a student but earns part-time by guiding people around.

The blue lanes are going to mesmerize you with really picturesque houses, walls, doors, and windows. Click ample of pictures here. Ask Deepak to take you to the base of the Mehrangarh Fort and you'll be awestruck looking at the blue houses from the top.

Jaswant thada

Hire an auto from Navchowkiya for Jaswant Thada which is a cenotaph for the royal people of Jodhpur. The place is located on a hill throwing beautiful views. The entire area is peaceful and you can spend some time sitting in the garden.

The entry to Jaswant Thada is Rs 30. There's a small eatery outside where you can enjoy mayonnaise sandwiches, hot chocolate and brownies.

Toorji ka jhalra

Toorji ka Jhalra is often listed under any Jodhpur Jaisalmer Itinerary. It's an 18th-century stepwell made of sandstone. Though it's quite crowded, you can certainly stop here for a while as you ask your auto-wallah to wait for some time while you take your pictures.

The stepwell is slippery so beware while walking down. Right next to this place you'll find backpacker hostels and antique shops selling local handicrafts. The rates are decent, so you can go crazy shopping.

Lunch at janta sweet house

As soon as I had mentioned visiting Jodhpur on Instagram, "Try pyaaz ki kachori," was a sentence I heard the most.

Take the same auto to Janta Sweet House and have pyaaz kachori, mirchi wada, raj kachori and rabdi ghewar. This place follows a token system and your name will be announced on a mic. You get all sorts of delicacies here: from Mumbai ki pav bhaji to the local chaat.

Local shopping

After lunch, right next to the Janta Sweet House, you will come across many leather and local artwork shops. You can explore the complete area out by walking and shop Jodhpuris, leather goodies, bandhani dresses, and many mirrored artworks.

Walk towards the Clock Tower and explore the market. Keep on walking in all directions to shop goodies and handicrafts including Indigo block printed materials, bedsheets, tops, etc.

Dinner at nirvana home

Come back to your hotel Nirvana Home earlier for dinner (say around 8:00pm). Have a soulful dinner of kadhi khichadi and sleep off early. The next morning, you start for Jaisalmer.

DAY 3 - JODHPUR TO JAISALMER & DESERT CAMPING

HOW TO REACH JAISALMER FROM JODHPUR

You can catch a train for as low as Rs 130 to reach Jaisalmer from Jodhpur. An alternative is booking a bus via Redbus. No matter which transport you choose, ensure to start earliest in the morning to not miss out on any time in Jaisalmer.

After reaching the bus stop/railway station in Jaisalmer, book a taxi for your campsite in the Thar desert. Ask the taxi driver to pick you up the next day as well as there are no taxis available in the desert.

WHERE TO CAMP IN THE JAISALMER DESERT

The third day on your Jodhpur Jaisalmer itinerary is reserved for desert camping! Which is the best campsite in the Jaisalmer desert? Well, it's undoubtedly the Royal Golden Camp.

Stay in their glamping setup and enjoy local cuisine, top-notch hospitality, clean rooms, folk dance and music, desert activities on the Sam dunes. You can have a totally different experience amidst the cold Thar desert and certainly an experience you shouldn't miss.

DAY 4 - JAISALMER SIGHTSEEING

The next morning post breakfast, start for the last day of your Jodhpur Jaisalmer 4 day itinerary. From the campsite, go to your hotel in Jaisalmer city via taxi.

WHERE TO STAY IN JAISALMER

The hotels near the Jaisalmer fort are more or less similar. We stayed at Tokyo Palace hotel and it's decent. If you're looking for luxurious hotels with standard amenities, you'll have to stay a bit far from the city centre.

To tour the city, either book a one-day taxi or an auto. Since the weather was pleasant in December, we booked an auto for Rs 400 for a day.

Tazia tower

The first stop in Jaisalmer is Tazia tower. It's a traditional building famous for its architecture. The entry is Rs 160 with Rs 30 camera charges.

Jaisalmer fort

One of the must-dos on a Jodhpur Jaisalmer trip is the Jaisalmer fort. The entry to the fort is Rs 100 with Rs 30 camera charges. A highly recommended place, do hire a guide here (contact Harry on +91 571240748).

Enjoy the many artefacts, a killer view of the Golden City, posh restaurants, and shopping on the fort. You'll be mesmerized looking at the view from the top and the overall life on top of the fort. Jaisalmer Fort is one of the very few "living forts with about one-fourth of the city's population still living on the fort.

Gadisar sagar lake & market

For boating lovers, there's a lake where you can enjoy a nice evening. Post Jaisalmer Fort, head to the Gadisar Sagar lake next. Go for a long ride to make the most of the scenic lake. Near the lake, you can also shop as there's a market selling handicrafts, keychains, patchwork, etc.

Patwon ki haveli

More than the haveli, the area is a must-visit according to me. There are a few stalls and a narrow lane with glistening gold on both sides. The experience is noteworthy.

You can click aesthetic pictures here and the frequent fluttering of the pigeons coupled with the old-world charm is going to leave you awed. The Haveli has extremely intricate architecture and interiors. A must visit on any Jodhpur Jaisalmer trip.

Dinner at pleasant haveli

Lastly, for a killer Jaisalmer Fort view and to enjoy the last night of your trip, head to the Pleasant Haveli. This place also offers residence so you can stay here instead of the Tokyo Palace. The view from this restaurant is good during the day as well as the night but if you want a romantic experience, I highly recommend dining here as the place is not so crowded at the night.

Jaisalmer shut its local transport and shops by 7:30 - 8:00 pm. So you're less likely to get an auto at the last minute. So book a taxi or an auto beforehand or ask your hotel guys to drop and pick you up. The nights can get quite lonely as there is hardly any transport or people on the road.