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Rajasthan

Indigo Jodhpur

By: Punita Malhotra
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Rooting for royalty

Named after Rao Jodha of the illustrious Rathore clan, Jodhpur is the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, embedded in the enigmatic exotica of palace-studded Rajasthan.

Words punita malhotra

Code-name Blue City, courtesy a bewitching sprawl of blue-painted houses and blue-blooded royal roots that reposition it at par with its more popular siblings, Jaipur and Jaisalmer. Its claim to fame…a historically invincible fort defining its skyline and an enticing walled area under ambitious facelift. But the most relatable royal rubb off? License to a lavish lifestyle. Who’s game.

Game to reign

Time your Jodhpur jaunt to coincide with an event that is deeply connected yet diametrically different from its astonishing architecture. It’s part-cultural, partheritage, part-festive, part-fashion, and all sporty. Where food, wine and grapevine are never out-of-bounds. Not to mention, the rare occasion to hang out with celebrities, international models, fashion designers, and even royals. Scene of all the action? The polo ground.

Hello, hallowed game with heritage hues. Facing first flush with the Mughal import of the ancient Persian game of Chaugan to northern India. Cut to three centuries. Jodhpur and Polo start getting thick. That’s when legendary Sir Pratap Singh forms the first formal team of Jodhpur, which creates waves all through Europe.The British adopt it in the mid-1800s and ‘horseback hockey’ becomes a thing. Soon, America and Argentina latch on.

The once-reserved-for royals legacy thrives on home ground in a much faster, friendlier format. The Jodhpur team, captained by Yuvraj Shivraj Singh, has shaken up the Indian and international polo scene. Brace for a personal pinch of pride, while you witness the city celebrate its success story as the birthplace of ‘modern’ polo, by attending one of the local ‘ooh-la-la’ sporting events. Everyone who’s anyone is around. Expect to find corporate patrons, first-generation players and women riders on the four-legged bandwagon.

The tightly-knit community pulsates with centuriesold baseline spirit and added new wave of eagerbeaver enthusiasm. Infectious atmosphere, hard to resist. Polo continues to define Jodhpur, and part of the tradition is to dress for the occasion. So, smarten up.

Dress for the occasion

What better way to grace a Polo event than in the garb of an urban sophisticate? The inevitable choice would be Jodhpur pants or Jodhpuris, as they are affectionately nicknamed. Naturally…after all it is fashion with a historic twist. A piece of royal heritage, which has revived itself as a quintessential part of the Indian gentleman’s wardrobe. And polo-perfect, considering the sport’s equestrian foundations from the era of Rajput warriors.

In the late 1800, Sir Pratap Singh, Regent of Jodhpur, an avid Polo player, created a new, improved churidar (traditional Indian long pants) by retaining its tight fit from calf to ankle, and flaring it along the thighs and hips for free movement while riding. Drumroll for the brand new breeches, quickly lapped-up by polo teams across India and the world. And beyond….to cavalry, Hollywood, tennis courts, ski slopes, aviation, car racing and even women fashion, starting with the 1920s debut by Coco Chanel. European style with close-fitting ankle-high Jodphur boots, or in an Indian avatar with embroidered leather jootis…both designed to impress. Alternate look?

The classic bandhgala, another Jodhpur invention, reincarnated from the achkan, which, in turn, is a blend of the colonial jacket and local angrakha. An epitome of Indo-Western tailored suits for men and women. Versatile. Always in style. Makeover moments ahead.

Bustling traditional Sadar Bazaar to freshly reinvented, contemporary Stepwell Square, the shopping expedition will leave you satiated. While on the hunt, give in to the temptation of vibrant tie-and-dye textiles, elaborate lacquerware, precious antiques and charming puppets…go the whole nine yards. Just for kicks, throw in a fun (not so effortless) experiment with the safa, 12 metres of fabric tied into a long turban. Refuel with mouth-watering delights like shahi samosa, pyaz ki kachori, kitti ki chakki, rabri ka laddoo. Before you venture deep into secret passages that lead to the cool waters of the refurbished Toorji Ka Jhalra, a grand 18th century stepwell, 60 feet deep with 400 flight of stairs. Its carved columns, pavilions and zigzagging steps will leave you culturally kindled. No worries…nirvana is near.

Wrapped in culture Dreams of time travel morph into reality under the shadow of the formidable walls of the Mehrangarh Fort. Its sumptuous silhouettes, framed against the dark skies, whisper sweet-nothings in your ears…or are they tales of valour, adventure or romance? Mark your calendar for winter…this is also the location for an annual, larger-than-life cultural extravaganza, the Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF), where culture enthusiasts partake in spectacular concerts showcasing a whole range of world music traditions… from belly dancers and sufi singers to classical music and late-night jamming sessions. Is a return to the royal repast on the card?

In the passing

The blue colour of the houses of Jodhpur gives the message of equality and stands against discrimination. Umaid Bhawan Palace is one of the largest and most expensive heritage hotels in the world. Mehrangarh Fort offers an adventurous yT_RQax?HpTvTpy over the walls of the fort. It offers a fantastic view of crossing over huge bastions, walls, and lakes of the fort.

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Rajasthan