The roots of Phulkari

An inquiry into the archives would lead one to British records dating back to the 1880s where Phulkari has been described as holding ceremonial significance, especially at weddings. It is believed that the Phulkari style of embroidery started in the 15th century with womenfolk of Punjabi villages, decorating everyday items of clothing such as odhnis (veil), dupattas, shawls, bedspreads, suits and blouses. However, the phulkari grew to gain auspicious significance, becoming a vital part of Punjabi culture and regional identity.

Phulkari uses the darning stitch method, where the thread is woven in rows along the grain of the fabric – a technique that can take years to perfect! This precise method of embroidery produces fascinating geometric or floral designs and patterns made by even, regular stitches. No less than an artist, Phulkari artisans value visual balance and compositional harmony – a rule followed regardless of whether the Phulkari is ordinary or of bagh variety. Ordinary Phulkari in itself features gorgeous motifs scattered across the cloth. However, one would be truly fortunate to run their fingers over Bagh Phulkari and feel the texture of delicate patterns, densely covering the entire cloth.

A kaleidoscope of colours and patterns

Phulkari is an extraordinary visual experience that mesmerizes all who witness it. Craftswomen use vibrantly hued threads to weave patterns varying in complexity. Over the years, a multitude of patterns have emerged as part of the phulkari tradition with more than 21 distinct motif styles such as the seven-coloured Satranga bagh motif, the striking blue river-like Dariya bagh motif, vivid Mor and Tota bagh with bird motifs, and Chamba motif featuring stylised creepers, leaves and flowers.

The Chope and Ghunghat styles hold special significance for Punjabi women who are adorned with Phulkari at auspicious occasions such as marriages and festivals. It is this auspicious and sacred meaning that makes red and it’s various shades the most favoured colour of fabric. Silken threads in golden yellow, red, crimson, orange, blue, violet, green, dark brown and white are typically used to create brilliant designs. Ordinarily, Phulkari is embroidered on to dyed khaddar cloth, enabling counting of threads. Each design is stitched with utmost care and devotion. No wonder, the Phulkari is seen by the people as a sign of love, tradition, and celebration.