Fallen like the brave. To rise for freedom

In the meandering lanes of Amritsar, neighbouring the resplendent Golden Temple, stands a haunting reminder of the price paid for India’s Independence, known as Jallianwala Bagh (garden of Jallianwala). This infamous garden is a memorial to all those who lost their lives in the open-fire orders given by General Dyer.

You will start seeing the unsettling signs when you enter through the narrow and the only entrance to the park and walk through. The walls, spotted with bullet marks and holes. The sculpted bushes, in the shape of armed soldiers are the reminders of the carnage that took place on the very soil years ago.

13 April 1919 – Women, children, and grandparents were out and about their usual routine in the park, some resting after their visit to the Golden Temple. A group of people were protesting silently about the Rowlatt Act (Black Act), which allowed the British Government to sentence any person to imprisonment without a trial. And then, without a whisper of a warning, the protestors were surrounded by their oppressors and left to die under a withering hail of bullets. The gunfire only halted when the soldiers nearly depleted their ammunition. Though the precise count of casualties remains a topic of debate, it is approximated that hundreds lost their lives, with over a thousand sustaining injuries.

After this massacre, Mahatma Gandhi declared, "The impossible men of India shall rise and liberate their motherland", and it truly, became a turning point in India's struggle for Independence.

Grim reminders

As you queue in line to walk into this piece of history, you will notice the narrow entryway. Now imagine the sheer panic of the helpless people as they were forced to rush out through this to escape the shower of fire. What's even more disturbing is that those soldiers blocked the narrow entrance to prevent people from escaping.

When the bullets were whizzing past like shots of fire, some people, in a futile attempt to save their lives, jumped into the well. Women with children, men with wives, and some alone. As you look into the Martyr's well today, you cannot wonder about the courage of the human spirit and the will to live on.

Spend a few moments near the well and head to the humble museum, also called The Martyr's Gallery. Here, you can find walls, glasses, and shelves lined with stories of freedom fighters, activists, and brave hearts who refused to let the reigning imperialism fly high.

The park has information plaques at places to help you know the historical importance of each spot there.

Over time, as bricks and paints chip off, taking away strips of history, the Jallianwala Bagh Trust makes commendable efforts to keep the memories afresh. Testaments to cruelty and bravery live in the walls here and try if you must, but you won't be able to wash off the feeling of pride and sadness.

Remembering the sacrifices

As you approach the entrance of Jallianwala Bagh, you're greeted by a striking sculpture crafted from white marble. The sculpture features intricately carved faces, seemingly rising like ethereal smoke. At its base, names shimmer in gold, a poignant tribute to the martyrs who tragically lost their lives in the infamous massacre.

Nearby, a statue of Udham Singh stands solemn, commemorating the man who assassinated the architect of the massacre, General O'Dwyer.

But the most imposing of them all is the Flame of Liberty monument, a towering symbol of remembrance and honour dedicated to the martyrs of the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. Rising 30 feet high, this four-sided tapering pylon, crafted from red stone, commands your attention. Adorning its surface are 300 slabs carved with the national emblem, the Ashoka Chakra. The faces of the martyrs are immortalized in stone, accompanied by their names, ensuring their sacrifice is never forgotten.

Speaking of flames, you will find the flickering flame of Amar Jyoti, the eternal light, casting its glow, symbolizing the enduring spirit of resilience and freedom.

Near the end of your experience, you can go to the Light and Sound show. Every day, the stage is lit with the enactment of the massacre amidst lights, sound and emotions. As you take your place, you will be intrigued by the replays of that sinister day. Add to it Mr Amitabh Bachchan's voice as he narrates the pain and unequivocal cruelty that General Dyer and his men let loose. At the end of the show, you are left with a heavy heart, filled with pride and remembrance of the selfless acts of courage shown by Indian freedom fighters.

Timings

Opening time - 6:30 AM

Closing time - 7:30 PM

Museum timings: 10 AM - 5 PM

Beyond the bagh

After Jallianwala Bagh, you are bound to feel overwhelmed. So, to get back into the spirit of exploration, you can go to the Golden Temple for some quiet reflection and let your mind be. When you feel like it, you can walk over to Akal Takht – a place of historical and religious significance as the highest seat of the Khalsa's power. Or stroll over to the Durgiana Temple built for Goddess Durga and a few other deities. It would be best if you also visited Tarn Taran. Favourite of the pilgrims, it is home to the sacred pond, the Saro Pond which was built by Guru Arjan Dev. You can also include the Partition Museum and the historic Gobindgarh Fort in your itinerary to improve your knowledge of India's glorious history.

Jallianwalah Bagh might not look like it belongs to a typical holiday experience. Still, it is a crucial reminder of the price paid for India's Independence that stays with you for years after you've returned and settled in your life.