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Odisha

Weaving Wonders: Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics

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Gopalpur's Pride: Tussar Silk Fabrics

Unraveling the artistic tapestry
 

Odisha offers visitors an unforgettable glimpse into India's diverse cultural tapestry. Jajpur, based in charming coastal town in Gopalpur, is world-renowned for the exquisite Tussar fabrics known as Gopalpur Tussar, (also known locally as Kosa silk). Dating back generations, today many tourists flock to Gopalpur to witness the traditional weaving techniques first-hand. Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics was awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2012.

Fabricating Legacy

Historical records suggest that Tussar fabric weaving in this region dates back to the 16th century. According to popular belief, the Bhulia community introduced the Tussar fabric craft to the area. After migrating from Bengal, the Bhulia community settled in Gopalpur and started weaving Tussar fabric four centuries ago. Gopalpur Tussar fabric is exceptional in quality and stands out from similar fabrics produced in other regions owing to its smooth and soft texture. Garments made with this fabric are optimal for humid and hot climates as they are breathable and lightweight. Aesthetically, the Gopalpur Tussar fabric offers a luxurious and rich appeal due to the silk's natural golden hues, making it endlessly captivating.

Artisans employ hand-reeled and hand-spun yarns to manufacture these crafts using the charkha, a traditional spinning wheel, adding to the charm of these products. An extra weft technique is also employed, which artisans use to weave intricate patterns and designs onto the fabric. Another fascinating traditional technique is gheecha. Artisans use this technique to weave unique designs onto the Tussar fabric using leftover Tussar yarns, differentiating the Gopalpur Tussar fabrics from the rest. 


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Silky Smooth

One can purchase many products that are made using Gopalpur Tussar fabric. Since this craft has gained immense popularity, presently a diverse set of garments are crafted. Gopalpur Tussar fabric is utilized to produce a wide range of clothing items such as shirts, scarves, stoles, suits, sarees, bedspreads, and dhotis (Indian attire). These products are smooth to the touch and possess an unparalleled shine. An intriguing feature of these handloom textiles is the utilization of fabric mixtures, wherein Gopalpur Tussar silk is blended with cotton, mulberry silk, and eri silk to produce a visually pleasing and distinctive yarn. The fishbone patterns on the aanchal and pallu (the spread-side of a saree) is another notable eye-catching characteristic of these fabrics. Motifs like chakra (wheel), deer, elephants, fishes, horses, lions, lotuses, parrots, peacocks, swans and different types of scenery are commonly found on variations of these products, ensuring that there is something for everyone.

Meet the Magic Behind Tussar Fabrics in Odisha 

The rich cultural history of weaving Tussar fabric has survived for over 400 years. This craft is an integral part of Orissa's cultural heritage and continues to pass the test of time. The dedicated craftsmen in Gopalpur have preserved the craft through several generations and ensured this artistic endeavour continues to thrive. When visiting Orissa next, be sure to drop by Gopalpur to experience this craft intimately first-hand by interacting with the craftspeople behind the Tussar fabric's magic. Come immerse yourself in this delightful art form!