Weaving the Soul of Mizoram

The weaving of Puanchei is a laborious process that involves great skill and patience. While the primary material used for making these shawls is cotton, they can be woven in silk and other synthetic materials as well. While the earliest known ‘Puans’ were white in colour, over time and with the use of natural dyes, they came to be woven in different colours. Woven in three pieces, lengthwise, with the middle panel being the narrowest, Puancheis are usually teamed with the Kawrchei (a blouse). Tied around the waist, the Puancheis fall till the ankle. The intricate and colorful designs that adorn the Puanchei are inspired by nature, folklore and tribal motifs. One can find patterns of flowers, animals, birds or geometric outlines on these textile pieces. Siniar motif, a traditional motif made up of triangles, zig zag and diamond shapes, is used in majority of weaves. At times, the Siniar motif is used in combination with floral patterns to create intricate designs. Besides the Siniar motif, Hruih, a plain black stripe and the Sakri Zangzia, representative of the back of a tiger are also popular motifs used by the weavers.

A Symphony of Culture and Tradition

The Puanchei carries a symbolic and a deeper meaning for the Mizo people. Considered as a symbol of identity and status, it is a prized possession that is passed down from one generation to the next as part of the family heirloom. It is also popularly used as a gift item to show respect and honor to guests and dignitaries.

While traditionally most Puanchei shawls were made for the family’s own use, gradually, with the growing interest in handlooms and recognition of the diversity of cultural expressions in the Indian textile sector, the woven Puan fabric is now available in shops in Aizwal, both for locals as well as visitors. Even the range of products today has diversified with products like home linen, table runners, cushion covers and other accessories available in the local markets.