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Mizoram

Off-roading To Champhai-Mizoram’s best-kept secret

By: Florina Soren
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As part of a Ministry of Tourism assignment, I was visiting Champhai - the border district of Mizoram. I must confess I had never heard about Champhai which made the excitement soar. Nearly 200 kms from Aizawl - the capital city of Mizoram, the drive to Champhai would be long and adventurous I was told. However, nothing prepared me for this drive of a lifetime.

We started from Aizawl, the only Horn-Free city in India and as we crisscrossed across the city, the driving discipline of the locals amazed me. No honking and making way for other vehicles whenever needed was the principle that every driver followed. Coming from North India where honking is a default action, I was awestruck. After stocking up on chocolates, juices and other eatables, we headed over to National Highway 6 which was going to be our route. We were told we would reach Champhai in seven hours, but a few kilometers of the drive made us realise this would be unachievable. However, what was amazing was the breathtaking views all around. Every turn opened before us the most beautiful vistas that we had ever seen. The dramatic sky and lush greenery all around were simply captivating.

While a part of the newly constructed highway was smooth and fabulous, some stretches were still under construction, so we were off-roading most of the time. At one place, a truck ahead of us was standing diagonally blocking our way. The road construction was midway and the rains made the road muddy and slippery. This could have made the truck skid, and therefore we were stranded in the middle of nowhere. After an hour of getting stones and rubbles to fill the land below the truck wheels, the driver and his team finally managed to get the truck back on the road, and we resumed our journey very cautiously.


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However, the mesmerizing natural beauty with rolling hills, fresh mountain air, and endless stretches of lush green fields made the trip worth it. With no sight of ugly concrete buildings or skyrise, the views were just magical. There was something about the lush green beauty of the state that was therapeutic. The rolling hills were mooted with free-flowing waterfalls, lakes, and waterfalls. And we on our long drive were witness to all these and more.

Though known as the “rice bowl” of Mizoram, Champhai is soon becoming the fruit capital with its grape vineyards and other fruit production. All through the drive, we came across shops selling pineapple, passion fruit, apples, kiwi, grapes and more. We stopped by for some amazing local fruit juice, and for the first time, I realized the locals do not understand English or Hindi. However, sign language of course works everywhere, and we had our trusted driver who helped us with translation.


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The drive from Aizawl to Champhai took us through small hamlets where one could stop for food and a little rest. We stopped at Keifang for a late lunch. A small hamlet with less than a dozen shops, Keifang is straight out of an Enid Blyton book. Rice, chicken curry, and a nice soupy vegetable curry made for an excellent lunch. Satisfied and rebooted, we continued with our journey. Though I was told there were regular shared Boleros that go to Champhai, I am afraid I only saw two Boleros jam-packed with people and their luggage.

As we drove it was almost dusk and the beauty around got better and prettier. Sunset in Mizoram is something to die for, the crimson sun setting behind the thick green mountains is the most amazing sight ever. The rains slowed our speed and it was getting dark. Google Maps was still showing 40 km before we would reach our destination. With not many vehicles along the way, this journey was turning out to be nothing short of a high-adrenaline adventure. Just as we were all getting increasingly impatient, we saw a heap of rubble right at the center of the road.


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The National Highway work was in progress and the debris from cutting the mountain was in front of us, blocking the road ahead. It was dark and the only light came from our phones and the twinkling stars above. On questioning the two workers, we were informed the road would be cleared only after a JCB would come from the other site. It was past 7.30 p.m, and with mountains on all sides and a roadblock in front, we were stranded yet again. Only two of our phones were working and after lots of deliberation, we decided to go back a few kilometers and take another road to reach Champhai. Thankfully, another jeep was behind us and that made - 9 people in two cars trying to find our way in pitch darkness. A sky full of stars and the sound of crickets was music to the ears. We reached Champhai Tourist Lodge after another two hours of driving through pitch darkness. However, I must confess even on the deep dark mountain roads, you feel safe in Mizoram - there is something in the air that is serene, rejuvenating, and simply magical ends.

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