The craft of the Kostis
Pune's iconic Puneri Pagadi has roots stretching back to 400 years. Back then, society was divided into various classes, one of which was the Kostis. These skilled artisans weren't just turban makers; they were the stewards of the Puneri Pagadi tradition itself. Kostis visited homes every two weeks, and crafted personalised pagadis (turbans) right there for their male patrons. This unique practice highlights the deep connection between the Puneri Pagadi and the city's cultural heritage.
Fashioning the Puneri Pagadi was a meticulous process. The Kostis used a staggering 65 meters of fabric, nine inches wide, for each creation. The fabric was dipped in water and then starch was added to ensure that the intricate folds held their shape. Interestingly, the base for shaping the pagadi wasn't always a mould – sometimes, the Kostis used their heads, knees, or even wooden logs! Due to the starch treatment, the pagadis had a lifespan of about 15 days. This explains the Kostis tradition of visiting homes fortnightly – to craft fresh pagadis for their patrons, keeping the tradition alive.
The six parts of Puneri Pagadi
The Puneri Pagadi boasts a unique construction. Traditionally, the base colour was white, but skilled artisans incorporated natural dyes from vegetables and fruits for a touch of vibrant variation. Today, hues of red are common in Puneri Pagadis. Cotton is usually the material of choice for the pagadis, though silk and satin are offered as more luxurious options.
Six key components come together to form this impressive headwear. The first is the Koka, positioned directly above the right eye. Next comes the Jartar – dazzling gold-coloured ribbons that dangle from the right side of the forehead. The Math is a flat section that seamlessly flows from the Koka. The Jari is a silky golden strip placed right next to the Jartar and behind the Koka. A luxurious piece of fabric elegantly drapes around the entire pagadi and is known as the Ghera. The circumference of the same is tailored according to the wearer’s head size. A hidden but essential element of the pagadi is a thin cotton lining known as Astar that provides comfort on the insider of the pagadi. The final piece, that rests on the forehead is the Kamal, tasked with offering style as well as providing protection against the heat of the blazing sun of Maharashtra skies.
