A three hundred year old tradition
Pauni, a major town in Bhandara district, boasts of a handloom tradition with a long and vibrant history. The 18th century, under the rule of the Chand Kings, saw the town flourish as a center for exquisite cotton handloom fabrics and trade. This legacy continued into the 19th century, with Pauni gaining further recognition for its beautiful silk and tussar creations. Named for its distinctive ‘saw-tooth’ or karvat border, the Karvat Kati saree is a symbol of celebration and marital bliss in Maharashtra's Vidarbha region. Traditionally worn by brides and for auspicious occasions, this saree features the unique saw-toothed pattern not only on the border but also incorporated into the bodice design.
Weaving saw-toothed tales
The Karvath Kati weaving tradition is a beautiful heritage passed down through generations. Just like the intricate patterns on the sarees themselves, the knowledge is meticulously transferred from father to son, ensuring the skills and dedication required of a true Karvath Kathi weaver. These artisans embody a spirit of cooperative effort, working together through each stage of the process. From the initial steps of sorting silk and winding the weft threads onto cones to joining the warp and finally the weaving and design itself, each stage is interdependent and requires the expertise of a master. The Karvath Kati sarees are woven primarily from five types of yarns – the Katia yarn, Ghicha yarn, Balkal/Pedunkal yarn, Jhari yarn and the Mill Spun variety of yarn.
The Karvath Kati weavers communicate through an elaborate local vocabulary for operating the loom. Words like mangtha, pinda, kakda, wajan, phirke, khoot, khilapatti, rool, thoon, are abundantly used, referring to the different parts of the machinery and the weaving processes. The flora and fauna of Vidharbha region inspire the artisans to weave intricate motifs of flowers, animals, and birds. As an ode to the spiritual and cultural connects, patterns depicting mythological figures also find their way on Karvath Kati weaves.
