The curious case of an enigmatic name

The origins of the name ‘Khajuraho’ are shrouded in mystery! The earliest reference to Khajuraho is found in an inscription of the renowned Visvanatha temple, attributed to King Dhanga Dev. The inscription mentions 'Kharjur Vahak', which was later interpreted by the British as ‘Kharjur Vatika’, leading to the inaccurate legend of Khajuraho being the garden of palm trees. The renowned art historian Dr Devangana Desai mentions in her book ‘The Religious Imagery of Khajuraho’ that ‘Kharjurvahika’ means the ‘carrier of the scorpion’ owing to the term 'Kharjur', which translates to the scorpion in Sanskrit.

History presents varying renditions of the city's name. In 1022 AD, Abu Rihan Al-Baruni referred to the city as Khajuraho, being the capital of Jejahuti. Subsequently, in 1333 AD, Ibn Batuta named it Khajurra. Adding to the historical accounts, Captain T.S. Burt recorded Khajuraho as Khajrao in 1838, while Sir Alexander Cunningham reported the city as Khajuraho in 1862.

The crown jewels of Khajuraho

Khajuraho's magic unfolds across three distinct temple groups, and the Western Group of Temples is where you'll find the most dazzling gems. Prepare to be awestruck by some of India's finest examples of Nagara-style architecture and sculpture – think intricate carvings and towering silhouettes that will leave you speechless.

This grand collection boasts twelve temples, each one unique in its design and layout. As you explore, keep an eye out for the magnificent Kandariya Mahadeva Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the destroyer, it rises like a majestic mountain range, with its multiple towers reaching over 31 meters high! Over 870 sculptures adorn its walls, depicting captivating aspects of life, love, and spirituality. Don't miss the ruins of the Chaunsath Yogini Temple that pays homage to the 64 ('Chaunsath' in Hindi) manifestations of the Goddess. This ancient structure, built entirely of granite, is the earliest surviving shrine in the complex.

Be sure to visit other architectural marvels in the Western Group, like the Visvanatha Temple, the Lakshmana Temple, the Devi Jagadambi Temple and the Chitragupta Temple, each with its own story to tell. A hallmark of Khajuraho's art is the remarkable realism and sensuality captured in its sculptures.

Explore the eastern enchantment

Nestled closer to the Khajuraho village itself lies the Eastern Group of Temples, where three Hindu temples stand alongside four Jain ones, reflecting the harmonious coexistence of different faiths under the Chandela rule. Step back in time at the Brahma Temple, one of the oldest surviving structures in the entire Khajuraho complex. Dating back to 900 AD, it houses a unique four-faced Shivalinga, revered by locals as a representation of Brahma himself. Admire the Vamana Temple, dedicated to the dwarf incarnation of Lord Vishnu, who subdued a demon king. This temple stands as a Nirandhara (ambulatory-less) structure, featuring a sapta-ratha sanctum, vestibule, grand assembly hall with lateral transepts, and entrance porch. Look for sculptures of apsaras (celestial nymphs) and sura-sundaris (beautiful heavenly beings) that once adorned the walls.

The Javari Temple is elevated on a high plinth with a prominent shikhara. The delicately carved Makara Torana arch showcases the exceptional stone carving skills of that period. Explore the Parsvanath Temple, the largest and exquisitely detailed Jain temple in the group. The sculptures on its northern outer wall are especially remarkable. Other Jain temples in this group are the Adinatha Temple, the Shantinatha Temple, and the Ghantai Temple.

Discover the southern tranquillity

Venture about five kilometres south of the village and discover two gems awaiting your exploration in the Southern Group of Temples. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Duladeo Temple is a unique architectural marvel. Built in the Nirandhara style, it features a sanctum, vestibule, a grand mandapa hall, and an entrance porch. But what truly sets this temple apart is the intricate detailing on the Shivalinga housed within the sanctum. Imagine thousands of lines, each symbolising a separate Shivalinga, a testament to the deep devotion of the Chandela era. In contrast to the other Khajuraho temples renowned for their erotic sculptures, the Chaturbhuj Temple offers a serene escape. Dedicated to the four-armed Dakshinamurti Shiva, it's the only temple complex devoid of such carvings. Explore the entrance porch, the sanctum without an ambulatory, the pillared mandapa hall, and the vestibule. Be sure to admire the captivating depiction of Narasimha's consort gracing the northern niche of the sanctum facade.

A journey through time and culture

After you've marvelled at the architectural wonders of the temples, take some time to explore the two fascinating museums to dive into the region's rich history and vibrant culture. Located within the Western Group of Temples, the Archaeological Museum is a treasure trove. Step back in time as you explore its five galleries, each showcasing a captivating collection of sculptures and antiquities from the glorious Chandela period. Be sure to visit the Jain gallery located to your left. Here, a magnificent 11th-12th century statue of Lord Sambhava Nath awaits, a testament to the artistic legacy of Jainism.

Just a short stroll from the temples, you'll find the Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum. Step into a vibrant world where the rich tribal culture of Madhya Pradesh comes alive. Explore captivating displays of traditional clothing, intricate jewellery, and traditional musical instruments, each one a unique piece of artistic expression.

A lunar legend of Khajuraho

Khajuraho's temples aren't just marvels of stone; they're a legacy whispered in carvings. Built in a mere century, their story is as captivating as their detail.

One legend whispers of Hemwati, a Brahmin priest's daughter known for her beauty. One fateful night, the moon god himself was said to be smitten, and from their celestial encounter, a son named Chandravarman was born. Destined for greatness, Chandravarman became the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Years later, Hemwati appeared in her son’s dream, urging him to build temples that would depict the full spectrum of human passions.

There are two possible interpretations behind Hemwati's request. One suggests that by openly portraying human desires, the temples would serve as a reminder of their fleeting nature, leading to a realisation of the emptiness of worldly pursuits. Another theory suggests the Chandelas may have been followers of Tantrism, an ancient spiritual path that views embracing and understanding earthly desires can be a stepping stone towards achieving ultimate liberation or nirvana. Whichever interpretation holds truth, Hemwati's dream set the stage for Khajuraho's unique artistic expression.

Enrich your visit

If you plan a trip to Khajuraho around February, you can witness the cultural extravaganza called the Khajuraho Dance Festival. Be enthralled by captivating performances of classical Indian dances, including Bharatanatyam, Kathak, and Odissi, as artists from around the globe converge to celebrate this rich cultural heritage. And don't miss the awe-inspiring sound and light show at the Western Group of Temples, held every evening.

Beyond the temples of Khajuraho, you can visit the Jain Museum located nearby. In the garden of its campus, you'll find exquisite sculptures of the 24 Jain Tirthankaras. Love wildlife? Venture to Panna National Park, where the Vindhya Hills frame a picturesque backdrop for exhilarating safari rides. Encounter rare species of wildlife and birds while indulging in the pristine beauty of nature. Nearby, Pandav Falls serves as an ideal picnic spot. According to legend, the caves mentioned in the epic Mahabharata are located at the base of these waterfalls. Travel east to Khajuraho and marvel at the breathtaking spectacle of Raneh Falls as it cascades down a 30-foot-deep canyon, a symphony of nature's prowess.

Khajuraho beckons

The carvings at the Khajuraho temples are a sight to behold, a privilege for any traveller. The intricate details, the sheer beauty, and the expressive artistry will leave you in awe. This is a sight you need to see to believe, a unique opportunity that awaits you. The best time to visit Khajuraho is from October to March. With pleasant weather and cool temperatures, you can comfortably explore the magnificent temples without feeling rushed.