Unveiling Bengaluru’s golden past

Bengaluru began life as the minor “village of the half-baked gram,” to this day (beans) remain an important local product. In 1537, Magadi Kempe Gowda, a devout Hindu and feudatory chief of the Vijayanagar empire, built a mud fort and erected four watch towers outside the village, predicting that it would, one day, extend that far; the city now, of course, stretches way beyond. During the first half of the seventeenth century, Bengaluru fell to the Muslim Sultanate of Bijapur and changed hands several times before returning to Hindu rule under the Mysore Wadiyar Rajas. In 1758, Chikka Krishnaraja Wadiyar II was deposed by the military genius Haider Ali, who set up arsenals here to produce muskets, rockets, and other weapons for his formidable anti-British campaigns. Both he and his son, Tipu Sultan, greatly extended and fortified Bengaluru, but Tipu was overthrown by the British in 1799. They then set up a cantonment, making the city an important military station and passing the administration to the Maharaja of Mysore in 1881. After Independence, the erstwhile Maharaja became governor of Mysore State. Bengaluru was designated capital in 1956 and retained that status when Karnataka State was created in 1973.

The city where tradition meets modernity

Founded in 1537 by Kempegowda, the town boasts the majestic Bangalore Palace, reminiscent of English castles, and Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace, a testament to the Tiger of Mysore's grandeur. Wander through the ancient Bull Temple, where stone structures stand tall in silent reverence. Should you walk through the ancient structures, which stand tall in silent reverence, remember that each corner of Bengaluru echoes stories of dynasties, colonial eras, and freedom struggles, making it a living chronicle of India's past.

Blooming parks and museums

A welcome green space in the city's heart, shaded by massive clumps of bamboo, Cubbon Park is entered from the western end of MG Road, presided over by a statue of Queen Victoria. On Kasturba Road, which runs along its southern edge, the Government Museum features prehistoric artifacts, Vijayanagar, Hoysala, and Chalukya sculptures, musical instruments, Thanjavur paintings, and Deccani and Rajasthani miniatures. It includes the adjacent Venkat Appa Art Gallery, which exhibits 20th-century landscapes, portraits, abstract art, wood sculpture, and occasional temporary art shows.

The spectacular Vidhana Soudha

Built in 1956, Bengaluru’s vast State Secretariat, Vidhana Soudha, northwest of Cubbon Park, is the largest civic structure of its kind in the country. K. Hanumanthaiah, chief minister at the time, wanted a “people’s palace” that, following the transfer of power from the royal Wadiyar dynasty to a legislature, would “reflect the power and dignity of the people.” Theoretically, its design is entirely Indian, combining local models from Bengaluru, Mysore, and Somnathpur with features from Rajasthan and the rest of India.

A walk in Lalbagh Botanical Gardens

Inspired by the splendid gardens of the Moghuls and the French botanical gardens at Pondicherry in Tamil Nadu, Sultan Haider Ali set to work in 1760 laying out the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, 4km south of the centre. Originally covering 40 acres, just beyond his fort - where one of Kempe Gowda’s original watch towers can still be seen - the gardens were expanded under Tipu Sultan’s rule, who introduced numerous exotic species of plants, and today, the gardens house an extensive horticultural. The British brought in gardeners from Kew in 1856 and - naturally —built a military bandstand and a glasshouse based on London's Crystal Palace, which hosts wonderful flower shows.

Must-visit places

Founded in 1537 by Kempegowda, the town boasts of the majestic Bangalore Palace, reminiscent of English castles, and Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace, a testament to the Tiger of Mysore's grandeur.

Next door, the Venkataramana Swamy Temple, dating from the early 18th century, was built by the Wadiyar Rajas. The Gopuras are architectural masterpieces in Bengaluru's temples, such as those at the Bull Temple (Dodda Basavana Gudi) and the Kote Venkataramana Temple. These towering structures are adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, showcasing the region's craftsmanship and artistic heritage. It is said that Gopuras act as spiritual gateways, marking the entrance to the divine abode. Devotees pass through these ornate towers to leave behind the secular world and enter a space of worship and contemplation. This physical and symbolic transition prepares the mind and spirit for communion with the divine.

Bengaluru’s vibrant nightlife

The big boom may be over, but Bengaluru’s bright young things still have money to spend, and nightlife in the city is thriving. A night on the town generally starts with a bar crawl along Brigade Road, Residency Road, or Church Street. For quiet, elegant drinking, head for the bars of five-star hotels such as the Jockey Club at the Taj Residency or its competition, the Polo Club at the Oberoi, and for a taste of colonial grandeur, the Colonnade at the Taj West End.

A shopper’s paradise

Bengaluru has many fine shops, particularly if you’re looking for silk. A wide range of silk is available at Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation. Handicrafts such as soapstone sculpture, brass, carved sandalwood, and rosewood are also good value; emporia include Central Cottage Industries Emporium; the Cottage Industries Exposition Ltd, and Karnataka State Emporium, Cauvery, at the MG Road and Brigade Road crossing.

Bengaluru’s culinary tapestry

Historically, the local cuisine in Bangalore has been predominantly South Indian, with rice, ragi, and millet forming the staple diet. Udupi restaurants are famous for serving traditional vegetarian fare. Andhra-style eateries brought spicier flavors to the city, adding diversity to the food scene.

Exploring the outskirts of Bengaluru

Bengaluru is surrounded by some very pleasant countryside, including a good walking country in the Nandi Hills to the north and the Bannerghatta National Park to the south. Many visitors to Bengaluru, however, are on their way to or from Mysore. Between the two, the Janapada Loka Folk Arts Museum gives a fascinating insight into Karnataka culture. At the same time, anyone wishing to see or study classical dance in a rural environment should check out the Nrityagram Dance Village.

The Janapada Lok Folk Arts Museum, 53km southwest of Bengaluru on the Mysore Road, includes an amazing array of Karnataka agricultural, hunting, and fishing implements, weapons, ingenious household gadgets, masks, dolls, and shadow puppets, carved wooden bhuta (spirit-worship) sculptures and larger-than-life temple procession figures, manuscripts, musical instruments, and Yakshagam theatre costumes. In addition, an incredible 1600 hours of audio and video recordings of musicians, dancers, and rituals from the state are available for viewing on request.

Nrityagram Dance Village is a delightful, purpose-built model village 30 km west of Bengaluru. It was designed by the award-winning architect Gerard de Cunha and founded by the Late Protima Gauri, who tragically died in an avalanche during a pilgrimage to Kailash in Tibet in 1998. Gauri, who had left Nrityagram sometime before her death, had a colourful career in media and film and eventually became renowned as an exponent of Odissi dance. The school continues without her and attracts pupils from all over the world.

Bengaluru—the city that codes poetry, brews coffee, and dances to its rhythm. Let’s explore its pixels and palimpsests, one byte at a time.