In Manali's dynamic culinary landscape, there's a clear distinction driven by its primary visitors: globe-trotting backpackers and starry-eyed Indian honeymooners. Manali's bustling heart, Mall Road, brims with North Indian eateries dishing out rich delicacies like butter chicken and shahi paneer, often accompanied by the cheerful banter of newlyweds. Contrastingly, the tranquil lanes of Vashisht and Old Manali are adorned with hospitable guesthouses and wallet-friendly eateries serving favorites like nutella pancakes and scrumptious pita paired with falafel and hummus. And yes, one can't miss the omnipresent German Bakery, an essential pitstop for most backpackers.
However, for those seeking an elevated culinary experience complemented by Manali's stunning vistas, there are exceptional dining alternatives. Imagine savoring a grilled chicken dish, previously relished by two of India's former chief ministers, while taking in the sweeping views of the deodar-enveloped Kullu valley. Or delighting in the fresh flavors of grilled Himalayan trout with the serene Beas and Manalsu rivers in the backdrop, the very sources of the fish. Here are some culinary experiences in Manali that promise more than just a meal - they promise memories.
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Himachal Pradesh
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From roast chicken to trout in almond sauce, with snow-capped views.
As you approach the restaurant, aptly named, the alluring scent of roses greets you from the garden, guiding your ascent up the stone staircase. Inside, you can nestle into the sophisticated wooden furnishings, or if the weather permits, venture outdoors to the open-air section adorned with cast-iron benches and a rustic wood-fired oven. This charming eatery is the brainchild of Rosalba Lucioli, the Italian matriarch of India's renowned Winter Olympian, Shiva Keshavan. With a commitment to authenticity, Rosalba imports cured delicacies like Parma ham straight from Italy while ensuring most herbs and fruits used are grown organically. If you choose the outdoor seating, enjoy a live culinary performance, watching the pizza dough being skillfully prepared and garnished before its journey into the oven. Conclude your meal with the classic tiramisu or indulge in the poire belle Hélène - succulent poached pears accompanied by generous scoops of vanilla ice cream.
Johnson’s Cafe
(Near Circuit House Road; open through the year; meal for two: ₹1,200)
A staple in the heart of Old Manali, Johnson’s Cafe boasts a menu featuring ten unique renditions of the Himalayan river trout. Their standout dishes include the sumptuously baked trout with almond sauce, and for those seeking a taste of the locale, the trout curry paired with steamed spinach and traditional Himachali red rice. For the best ambiance, opt for the terraced garden, where they light a heartwarming bonfire on chilly evenings and host live music performances on many weekend nights during peak season, offering everything from electrifying rock to mesmerizing electronic beats.
Just a short stroll from the cafe lies its younger sibling, Johnson’s Lodge. This cozy establishment, complete with a crackling fireplace and all-season service, offers a haven especially during the biting Manali winters. Their eclectic menu ranges from Continental and Pan Asian to Mughlai favorites; the rosemary-infused chicken thigh is a must-try. With its upbeat music and vibrant atmosphere, the Lodge is the go-to spot for a lively Saturday evening and boasts the most exquisite cocktail assortment in the area.
Martin’s (Himalayan Sports Club)
(In Shanag village, 5 km from Manali; open April to November on Sundays from Noon to 5p.m.;meal for two: ₹1,000)
For those journeying through Manali, it's a golden rule to be there on a Sunday. That's when Martin’s opens its doors, but only for brunch. Spearheaded by the warm-hearted Austrian chef Martin, with support from his mountain-native wife and their family, the establishment has garnered acclaim for its impeccable grilled chicken. This dish features a golden, crunchy skin enveloping succulent, melt-in-your-mouth meat. However, securing a serving requires foresight—you'll need to make a reservation (0-9736246483). If the famed grilled chicken eludes you, fret not; the eatery offers a medley of delectable dishes, shuffled every week, to tantalize your taste buds. Their smoked trout and pizza range are particularly noteworthy. And to amplify the experience, relish your meal in their relaxing outdoor seating area, complete with elongated wooden benches which have cradled many a diner during their post-meal siesta.
Drifters’ Café
(Old Manali; open through the year; meal for two: ₹800)
If the old adage holds true that a wholesome breakfast is the gateway to joy, then Drifters’ Café promises to be your path to elation. Here, they masterfully serve classics like eggs benedict and eggs Florentine, while their waffles and pancakes come generously doused in maple syrup, enough to brighten even the cloudiest moods. But a word to the wise: at Drifters', it's easy to lose track of time amidst such delectable delights.
Chopsticks
(Mall Road; open through the year; meal for two: ₹800)
Inevitably, during your visit to Manali, the bustling vibrancy of Mall Road will beckon. When that moment arrives, consider taking a culinary detour to Chopsticks. This eatery presents an appealing blend of Chinese and Tibetan dishes, complemented by a sprinkle of Japanese offerings. The ambiance reflects Tibetan heritage, evident from the snow lion flag adorning the walls, the ever-smiling Laughing Buddha, the intricate bhavacakra wall decor, and an esteemed portrait of the Dalai Lama. When it comes to the menu, don’t miss out on the gyakok, a traditional Tibetan hot pot. Served in a grand copper vessel over a flame, you can indulge in an array of ingredients - from noodles and bok choy to tofu, veggies, chicken, and boiled egg.
Oven in the Garden
(Rohtang Highway, 3 km from Manali; open March to November; meal for two: ₹600)
Hidden due to its location and more frequented by those en route to Rohtang and beyond, this quaint pizzeria is nestled amidst a picturesque apple orchard. At its core is a spacious gazebo, hosting a handful of tables. Saturdays are particularly special here, offering a brunch that features their signature lamb roast, accompanied by a vivid beetroot puree reminiscent of Prince's iconic purple jumpsuit.
Siddu
Siddu, a beloved local delicacy, is a steamed wheat bread filled with a zesty mixture of walnuts, green chillies, and coriander. It's best savored when dunked in melted ghee. While commonly prepared in Manali households, one can occasionally find siddus being sold by Pahari women adorned in traditional pattu attire at various street corners. To taste this authentic dish, it's advisable to seek local recommendations.
While Manali’s mesmerizing beauty captivates your soul, its burgeoning café culture promises to satiate your palate. These cafés, with their unique atmospheres and diverse menus, reflect the eclectic mix of cultures that the town attracts. So, whether you're seeking a quiet corner to reflect upon your journey, a spot for lively conversations, or just a plate of delicious food against the backdrop of the Himalayas, Manali's cafés have something for every kind of traveler.
