Chaugan

The Iravati was situated right in front of the Chaugan. The latter is a large patch of flat ground right in the centre of Chamba, flanked on one side by the Ravi. In the days of yore, it was a meadow but was soon converted into a public ground.

The Chaugan is where the annual Minjar Mela takes place – an extravaganza of sports and cultural programmes. When we visited, even when there was no fair or public spectacle happening here, it was clear that it was the heart of the town and the hub of all activities.

Locals – families, couples, boys playing cricket, office folks taking a break – lounged around the Chaugan, enjoying the pleasant summer evening. Hawkers of balloons, snacks and toys tried to get their attention.

We too entered the Chaugan to feel a part of this critical element of Chamba.

Our breath, however, was completely taken away by the Blue Jacaranda trees planted at the circumference of the ground. Its blue – lavender coloured leaves, both on the trees and strewn on the ground, provided a comely contrast to the grey sky and the green grass respectively.

We then stepped out and began a stroll around the Chaugan. The lanes were narrow; thus, walking was the best way to explore. It is surrounded by administrative buildings as well as a shopping street. Having walked to our hearts’ content, we ascended a slope of lanes, through the market, to get to the Laxminarayan Group of Temples.

Laxminarayan Group of Temples

A temple is always a stone’s throw away in the Chamba District. We got a chance to visit one – the Laxminarayan Group of Temples. All the heritage monuments (including the temples) are located east of the Chaugan, on the Shah Madar hill slope.

The Laxminarayan Temples are architectural sensations and historical wonders. They go all the way back to the 10th century. They have wooden chhatris and shell roofs to protect against snowfall. The carvings on the stone walls (divine motifs and deities’ images) and the gilded pinnacles are worth gaping at!

The complex has six temples in a row. We moved from shrine to shrine – Laxminarayan, Shiva, Gauri Shankar, Radha Krishna – bowing our heads but also gazing at the architecture wondrously. A light drizzle had kept us constant company because of which, I guess, the temple had only a few devotees.

The Chamba Tribes

We stayed at a 100-year-old mud house of a Gujjar nomad a little on the outskirts of Chamba. Gujjar and Gaddi are the original tribes of Chamba and still live agricultural, herdsmen lives. They shared a lot about their culture, food habits, and history & development of civilization of many local tribes & people.

It is said that experiences change people. We certainly changed after seeing a rural household in its original setting - men going to work; women tending to the farm, livestock & kitchen; women not talking to us 'outsiders' directly but only through the men & yet not leaving any stone un- turned in service; the boy child going to an English medium school while his sisters go to a Hindi medium one etc.

Our Gujjar hosts served us dinner in their kitchen where the entire family sat but only we ate, being their respected guests. We were floored with their warm hospitality.

Chamba Slippers

To be honest, we did not know about the Chamba Slippers, or better known as Chamba Chappals, till we ventured into this region. This is the traditional footwear that was originally made from locally produced leather. However, today, the leather is transported from South India.