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Gujarat

Rann Utsav guide: Where white desert sands meet vibrant Kutchi culture

By: Travel and Food Network
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Every year visitors from across the globe assemble in Kutch, Gujarat, to revel in the splendor of the white sands of the Rann Utsav.

The Rann of Kutch, a large salt marsh tucked on the western edge of Gujarat and the Thar Desert, is a landscape of surreal stillness that glistens like silver under the moonlight. Once a princely state, and now the second largest district in India, this glorious land is hidden under water during the monsoon. The salt-caked sand dunes emerge with a fresh covering of crystals when the water recedes. Every year, from December to March, the Rann Utsav is celebrated in this unique biosphere that is brimming with history and culture.

The festival unfolds in Dhordo, a village in the Great Rann of Kutch close to the Indo-Pak border, recognized as the portal to the white sands and situated 81 kilometers or approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes away from Bhuj. Extending over a span of three months, Rann Utsav serves as a vibrant congregation, uniting local artisans, performers, musicians, and folk artists with the aim of rejuvenating the cultural tapestry of the state.


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More information

Gujarat

What to expect

Rann Utsav, you have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the vibrant tapestry of local Kutchi culture, featuring a diverse array of elements such as handicrafts, intricately embroidered fabrics, traditional attire, and captivating musical performances. While some travelers opt for an extended stay at the festival, many choose a weekend getaway, allocating the remaining time to explore the expansive desert and other facets of the state.


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Even a weekend retreat to the tented city of Dhordo, meticulously organized by the Gujarat Tourism Board, proves to be a worthwhile investment of your tour time. To streamline your itinerary, here's a tailored guide on how to customize your tour based on your specific interests.

Adventure

Dungar, also known as the black hill, in Kutch offers a mesmerizing panorama of the desert. Its name is derived from its appearance. Situated a mere 25 kilometers from the festival (95 kilometers from Bhuj), Kala Dungar is renowned for two main attractions: a sweeping panoramic vista of the Great Rann of Kutch and a 400-year-old temple dedicated to Dattratreya, a three-headed amalgamation of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.

For adventure enthusiasts seeking an adrenaline rush, a trek to the sunset point is an option; however, access beyond the military check-post is restricted. The optimal times to visit Kala Dungar are either at dawn for a spectacular sunrise over the Great Rann or in the late afternoon for the sunset (start the ascent right after lunch). Stay to witness the sun's descent, marvel at the starry sky, and savor the sensation of being dwarfed by the vast expanse above and the barren land below. Scheduled tours from Rann Utsav to Kala Dungar are available regularly; it is advisable to pre-book your return ride to ensure a timely return for dinner.

Visitors can go on ATV (all-terrain vehicles) and Segway rides or just about anything their heart desires, from stargazing and helicopter rides, to para-motoring and indoor games for children. In addition, expect a chance to do some rifle shooting, play bungee run basketball, go Velcro wall-climbing, and witness sumo wrestling.

Nature and Wildlife

The Little Rann of Kutch, popularly known as the Wild Ass Sanctuary, stands as a significant wildlife reserve in the Indian state of Gujarat, covering an expansive 4,953 square kilometers. Drawing wildlife enthusiasts and bird watchers from around the world, this sanctuary is particularly renowned for hosting the last surviving population of the critically endangered Indian Wild Ass. Beyond the Indian Wild Ass, the sanctuary boasts a rich avian population, establishing itself as a premier destination for bird watching. Enthusiasts can marvel at the diverse array of bird species, including Greater Flamingos, Eurasian Wigeon, Common Teal, and Demoiselle Crane, amid others. Nestled within the Little Rann of Kutch—a vast salt desert—the sanctuary gains additional allure from its barren landscape punctuated by shrubs and thorny bushes, creating a striking contrast against the verdant surroundings.

The best time to experience the wonders of the Wild Ass Sanctuary is during the winter months, spanning from November to February. This timeframe witnesses the arrival of migratory birds, transforming the sanctuary into a haven for bird watchers. For a more immersive experience, visitors can embark on jeep safaris to explore the sanctuary's diverse wildlife.

Shopping

bandhani sarees, there are plenty of shopping options at the venue. You could also travel to Bhuj (an hour away) which has a plethora of shops with different kinds of Kutchi knick-knacks on offer: look for Bhoomi handicrafts, Kutch Bandhej and stalls around Khatri chowk. For leather goods and other souvenirs, pay a visit to Gandhi Nu Gaam, a village of artisans near the Rann Utsav that was restored after the devastating earthquake. An ideal itinerary would look like this: Arrive at the Tent City, relax and explore the area for a bit after lunch, and then visit Gandhi Nu Gaam later in the afternoon. The next day, head back to Bhuj.

Architecture

For those intrigued by vintage heritage structures and palaces, consider extending your trip by a couple of days.

Use the initial day to explore the Tent City, and on the subsequent day, head to Mandvi to experience the grandeur of the Vijay Vilas Palace. This palace facing the sea has graced the screens of many Bollywood films, hosting film narratives and stars within its luxurious walls. The palace's architecture is a fusion of Kutchi, Rajasthani, and Bengali styles, featuring Rajput-inspired interiors. It is surrounded by lush greenery and boasts a private beach. If you find yourself in Bhuj, make sure not to overlook the Aina Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) with its remarkable Victorian-era architecture and gleaming splendor.

Food


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dabeli—a desi sandwich featuring a sweet and savory filling of potatoes, pomegranate, and peanuts nestled between two soft ladi pavs. If you're embarking on a road trip from Bhuj to Dhordo, expect to encounter vendors offering this flavorful delicacy at every pit stop. Keep an eye out for the karak or kadak variant, where the dabeli filling is blended with toast rusk, providing a distinctive crunch.


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A quintessential Kutchi thali, readily available at the festival, typically includes bajri no rotlo (millet roti), green chili pickle, chhas (buttermilk), kadhi, and a generous serving of semi-liquid khichri, enriched with ghee. Each meal is complemented by the presence of jaggery and ghee. Embrace the opportunity to sample a variety of local flavors from the festival vendors.


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Rann Utsav is an action-packed festival like no other.


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It’s a joyous celebration of desert life—the memories of which are sure to last a lifetime.