Unearthing the past

Barely 40kms from Guwahati lies an enigma that has enthralled visitors since it was officially excavated in the 1970s. Madan Kamdev is an archaeological site that transports us back to the 9th and 10th centuries AD, to the remnants of a once-thriving complex that belonged to the Pala dynasty of Kamarupa

Dissent and discovery

There was always dissent on the issue of when and who constructed these temples. A description in the Journal of Asiatic Society of Bengal of 1855 by Edward Dalton about the ruins of 15 temples found around the Silsako Bridge (a historical bridge destroyed in the 1897 Assam earthquake) might have referred to Madan Kamdev.

In 1943 and 1949, this information was confirmed in an article published by the Assam Research Society (Kamarupa Anusandhan Samiti). However, no excavations were conducted for more than a quarter century since publication of the article, resulting in a lot of artefIcts being lost to religious folks or hunters.

In 1977, the Archaeological Directorate of Assam took over the responsibility for this area and in addition to the main temple, found ruins of 12 more temples.

The love of sculptures

Across the ruins of this temple complex are amazing remnants of erotic iconography, sculptures whose intricate carvings tell tales of love and desire. These carvings include dancing nymphs and fairies, gods and goddesses, and lovers, giving it the moniker of “Khajuraho of the East.”

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Timings

Opening time - 09:00 AM

Closing time - 05:00 PM

Kamdev’s redemption

Legend has it that Kamdev, the Hindu God of Love, once incurred Lord Shiva’s wrath. Restored to life by Parvati’s intervention, he regained his form at this very spot, giving rise to the name “Kamarupa” (in Assamese). Incidentally, the ancient name of Assam, “Kamarupa” is derived from “Kamdev” and is “the land where the God of love regained his original form” or “rupa”.