Tamil Nadu
To reach Kapaleeswarar Temple in Chennai’s historic Mylapore district, walk down one of three surrounding ‘Mada’ streets, inhaling the mingled scents of jasmine, camphor and vehicle exhaust. Turn the corner into a quiet square and you come up against the temple’s towering gopuram, a 40 metre-high edifice with elaborate sculptures picked out in fluorescent candy colours. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, dates back several centuries. Behind the shrine is a picturesque bathing tank. Before leaving, sit yourself down near the entrance and study the fabulous gopuram for its depictions of familiar Hindu myths.
Lord Muruga, guardian deity of the Tamils, has six sacred abodes. One of them, Tiruchendur Senthilandavan Temple lies on the shores of the Bay of Bengal – the view alone is worth your journey. The temple’s white, sculpted gopuram soars nine storeys high, crowned by nine copper vessels (kalasam). Inside the complex, look out for the dwajasthambh or copper-plated flagstaff; peek through a hole in the wall opposite and you’ll see the foaming sea beyond. Place your ear upon the hole and you’ll hear the sound of the universe – Ommmmm!
Andhra Pradesh
The sprawling hill temple complex of Tirupati, dedicated to Sri Venkateswara (an incarnation of Vishnu) is virtually an industry unto itself, with allied activities in education, social welfare and healthcare.
Tirupati’s origins are unclear; what we do know is that beginning with the Cholas, every ruling southern dynasty has endowed the temple handsomely with gold and jewellery. In 1517, Vijayanagara ruler Krishnadevaraya donated the gold required to plate the inner shrine’s cupola – a glittering vision that still staggers visitors.
Why does Tirupati attract so much wealth? Because Sri Venkateswara is paying off the interest on his huge loan from Kubera, the divine cashier who funded the Lord’s wedding expenses. Devotees who help the Lord repay His debt are granted all their wishes. On their way downhill, pilgrims pay their respects to His consort Padmavathi (an incarnation of goddess Lakshmi), who has her own shrine.
From the distribution of huge laddoos as prasadam to the spectacle of priests sorting millions of coins and devotees getting their heads shaved, Tirupati has plenty to see – you want at least a day to take in this huge operation.
Hanamkonda or Hanumakonda derives its name from Hanuman. Mythology says that Hanuman, while flying to Lanka with the Sanjeevini Mountain, dropped a few stones along the way – they are the hills where Hanamkonda now stands. In the 12th century, the Kakatiya rulers raised a magnificent, thousand-pillared temple dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Surya. Rock sculptures of elephants, elegant pillars and intricately carved screens arise on the slopes of the hillsides. Birdsong and the tinkling of temple bells are balm for the stressed soul. A larger-than-life Nandi, made of black basalt, gleams in solitary splendour, as though sculpted only yesterday.
